rob answers:

Yes, and no. You can’t really screw anything up permanently, because CHDK is a memory resident “patch”. Worst case scenario: You unlock your SD card, and you’re back to square one.

It allows some remarkable things, like x-sync at shutter speeds beyond 1/10,000, RAW shooting, an unlimited intervalometer with full auto-exposure, and scripts to perform basically any action.

Try it out. It completely changed how and what I shoot.

rob answers:

Stay in the same family, that way you can share lenses. Canon also made a full manual AT-1, FTb, TLb, F-1, etc. If you want to invest in something different I’d look into a new Nikon FM-10.

rob answers:

Canon EOS 550D Test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6No8CyThQo

Canon EOS Rebel T2i (aka 550D)18 MP

http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fs%3Fie%3DUTF8%26x%3D0%26ref_%3Dnb%5Fsb%5Fnoss%26fsc%3D11%26ih%3D13%5F2%5F0%5F0%5F0%5F0%5F0%5F0%5F0%5F1.79%5F553%26y%3D0%26field-keywords%3Dcanon%2520eos%2520550d%26url%3Dsearch-alias%253Daps&tag=08aug-20

Too often camera reviewers insist their initial dslr purchase is a transformative event. “I couldn’t believe the pictures I got from (fill in the blank).” Having used an Olympus point and shoot for years, I was seduced by those claims. My pictures were good, but imagine what they would be like if I used (fill in the blank). I wanted my pictures to look like the ones in the magazines. And, based on the reviews I read, I would get that quality if I purchased a dslr.
After exhaustive research, I finally settled on the T2i. Initially, I was hesitant about buying a Canon or Nikon, assuming that the hype about their quality was a direct result of their advertising budget. But the press for the T2i was overwhelmingly positive, and I decided all of those reviewers couldn’t have been bought off.
So once the camera arrived, I took it out for a test shoot. Since I am a neophyte, I initially set the camera on automatic. The first thing I discovered was discouraging. Canon makes a big deal about the three-inch lcd and how many pixels there are so you can consult it in any kind of weather. And the display is beautiful indoors. But out in the sun… Uh, uh, it is worthless. I had to duck into the shade to see anything. So if you are an advanced photographer and want to adjust your settings shot by shot, either bring an umbrella or find some shade. Otherwise you will be shooting blind.
Now, as for the quality of the pictures taken on automatic, I was stunned all right. But not in a good way. They were no better than my Olympus (the 5060 if you are wondering) and not very sharp. I know that is heresy, but that is my honest opinion.
I had previously bought Amazon’s highest rated general dslr guide — a three-book set — and consulted it. The author advised shooting in an advanced mode and to shoot at f/8, in his words the camera’s sweet spot. And I saw an immediate improvement. Not that the shots were magazine quality, but I assumed that was because of my inexperience in setting the camera properly.
But then I called Canon customer service (which, by the way, is superb) with a question and mentioned to the guy that I was underwhelmed by my pictures. And he explained that the camera could only do so much. A key to great pictures is the lens. He pointed out that while I had purchased the camera with an upgraded 18mm to 135mm lens, the quality still was not comparable to an L lens, which is Canon’s professional lens.
Well, that clarified things for me. Unless I wanted to invest another thousand bucks or more on an L lens, I had no hope of consistently getting top quality shots. Presumably, I could stumble into one by accident, but that was all I could hope for.
But after lowering my expectations, I have begun to really enjoy this camera. Having tentatively moved to the advanced mode (I even adjust some other settings manually,) I have been pleased with the pictures I have been getting. And I am really glad I upgraded to the 18-135mm because it allows me the versatility I want without needing to change lenses.
Bottom line: if you have more modest expectations going in (your friends will not ooh and ahh at your pictures, and you will not see them in National Geographic) you will really enjoy this camera.

rob answers:

Is there an Auto/Manual switch on the lens?
It’s easy to knock into manual. Then, of course, the lens won’t autofocus.

The symbols flashing would be to warn you of the problem – Autofocus on the camera, manual set lens.

rob answers:

The Wiki article specifically mentions a Canon lens known for soft focus. This lens will work but will have to be manually set for focus and aperture. An adapter may also be required but I am fairly sure the lens will mount directly.

rob answers:

“FAQ: What is the best format for rendering and exporting from After Effects?”
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/729526

rob answers:

Your camera came with an EOS Digital Solutions software disk. What you are looking for is…Remote Shooting/Capture.
Http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/canon/eos_60d-review

rob answers:

Hello,

For an ametuer photgraphy and not a frequent one I reccomend you to try:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013JG0TM/ref=oss_product

Despite it being class 4 it is exceptionally good for value, its a great product, it has 16GB, although on my one it only has 14. But its still great. I shoot high quality 14mp pictures, and the 16gb card can hold around 6000 14mp pictures and around 8 hours of 720p HD videos, if yours 1280, fill HD, I think it might hold around 4-5 hours.

It is a great product anyway cheap for its size. Speed is fairly fast can copy 128MB in less than a minute.

Try it

If you think I have given a full answer, please ate me best answer

rob answers:

There should be a greenish light somewhere that you can turn on, try looking in the manual

rob answers:

That is because your camera is NOT a playback device.

It can only display images that were saved to the memory card from the camera itself. In fact if you were to copy all your images to your computer (which you should be doing at the end of each shooting day) and then attempt to place them back on the card, they will copy to the card, but the camera will not be able to see it.

Do you own the copyright to the photos you are copying from Flickr? If not, you really should not be doing that except for under the conditions that quality under the “fair usage” rule.

That rule allows use of images by the non-copyright owners under these circumstances

“quotation of excerpts in a review or criticism for purposes of illustration or comment; quotation of short passages in a scholarly or technical work, for illustration or clarification of the author’s observations; use in a parody of some of the content of the work parodied; summary of an address or article, with brief quotations, in a news report; reproduction by a library of a portion of a work to replace part of a damaged copy; reproduction by a teacher or student of a small part of a work to illustrate a lesson; reproduction of a work in legislative or judicial proceedings or reports; incidental and fortuitous reproduction, in a newsreel or broadcast, of a work located in the scene of an event being reported.” — The 1961 Report of the Register of Copyrights on the General Revision of the U.S. Copyright Law

rob answers:

If you have been using the XT for a while, you will understand this chart.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_eos350d%2Ccanon_eos5d%2Cnikon_d200&show=all

Check out the comparison page. Click on “In-depth review” and “Read Owner Opinions” for each camera. Be sure to note that the reviews are many pages long so you don’t stop after page one. Check the sample images, also. You can enlarge these to full size images if you click on the file name shown below the picture. You will have to then put your cursor in the white space to the right of the picture and click once. After that, you can pass your cursor over the image and it will turn into a magnifier. Click it as a magnifier once and the image will go to full size and you can really examine the detail or look for artifacts like purple fringing around items in high contrast photos or noise in darker areas of the picture.

There is practically no comparison between the two cameras as the 5D is in a whole different league, in my opinion.

Be aware, though, that any “digital” lenses you may own for the Rebel XT will not be suitable for the 5D, as the 5D has a full-sized sensor and the images will be cut off in the corners.

If you only own a lens or two, you might consider my camera – the Nikon D200. If I had to pick between the two, it would be a long and hard decision. It would help the Nikon that it costs about half as much… I inculded it in the chart above so you can read the review.

See also:

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_reviews/5d.html

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/d200.html

See also:
http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/content/Nikon-D200-vs-Canon-EOS-5D-Head-to-Head-Review-.htm [Note the navigation menu near the top of the review]

rob answers:

The problem is in the way digital cameras are designed. Compact digital cameras let one view the image on the LCD screen because the photo sensor can be on all the time (like a video camera) and feed the output to the screen.

SLR digital cameras (like the Rebel XT) cannot do this for a few reasons. Firstly, SLR stands for single-lens reflex, which means the single lens of the camera captures the image, which is then reflexed (by a mirror) through the viewfinder. Only when one presses the shutter does the mirror flip up out of the way and the sensor captures the image.

Knowing this, one might logically think, then, that the camera could simply just flip the mirror up when one wants to compose using the LCD. The problem is that SLR photo sensors, being larger in size than ones found in compact digital cameras, generate too much heat for constant use. Thus, LCDs on SLR digital cameras, with the exception of the Olympus E330, are used only for reviewing photos.

rob answers:

Go to the Menu.
Option “Format” is located on the Setup 1 menu tab (brown-yellow color tab, forth from the left).

Format removes everything from memory card (same as for computer harddrive).
It’s recommended to format card before using, but it is not mandatory. It’s more precaution.
Camera does not format card itself.

When card is full (or when you want to re-use it) there are two options:
– Remove All
Remove All doesn’t really removes all. Files are still there, but you can save new files overwriting old ones.
This option allows to restore images (using special software).
Same time (in theory) there are more possibilities to get images corrupted.

– Format.
Format removes everyhing from the card. Images are not restorable.

Which one to use? Matter of taste
I always format cards.

rob answers:

On the upper-left part near where the lens connects to the body, there should be a button with a lightning symbol. That’s your flash. When you’re done, push it back down.

rob answers:

Buy it, it is a steal!!

If you have had success with your standard kit, you will have no difficulty using the new lens

Just remember that since you are going to be shooting action and using a long lens, you will want your shutter speed to be set at, at least 1/500th second until you are able to hone your action shooting skills and can produce fine images without blur caused by subject or camera movement.

rob answers:

You really need a macro lens or at least “macro filters” that screw on the front of your lens. The thing is, you lens has an 11.4″ limit to the close focus distance and you are are trying to take a picture too close. You MIGHT make out staying 12″ away, using the 55 mm setting, and then cropping the picture to get the final size you want. Maybe. You do have 10 MP to play with, after all.

I am using a Nikon 60 mm Macro lens, which translates into about 90 mm in “35 mm equivalent.” This gives plenty of working distance. This lens gives you a true macro 1:1 reproduction. Canon makes an equivalent lens.

I use the built-in pop-up flash rather than a $400-600 marco lighting set-up. It’s free. “Simple and effective.”

Set the camera in Aperture priority and choose f:11, f:16 or so, depending on personal preference. Set the EV at -0.7 stops. Perhaps you would like a different EV setting, but this is what works for me. After that, in autofocus, it’s a point and shoot with wonderful results.

Here are two samples taken exactly this way:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/412244164/

rob answers:

First off your facts are a little off. The 40D has a 10MP sensor just like the XTi.

BUT the MPs have little to do with separating these cameras. The Digic III processor in the 40D has a lot more to do with quality than MPs.

The question you need to ask is “What am I going to do with this camera?”

The XTi is an entry level DSLR. The 30D and its latest successor, the 40D, are what some referred to as “Pro-sumer’ models.

The biggest differences in the 40D and the XTi are the extras and performance. 6.5 vs 3.5 fps, the Live View LCD (Which I would discourage using for a beginner in the field), ISO range, image buffering, faster autofocus, etc, etc, etc.

(The 40D has a larger mAh battery [which you can get for the XTi] because it sucks down the juice faster than Ted Kennedy and a martini, with the Life View LCD)

If you are taking your first photography class then I would suggest the XTi and take the money you save and buy better and faster glass to put in front of it.

If most of this didn’t make sense. Then buy the XTi and hurry up to class.

rob answers:

Another thing to consider is whether a faster lens would solve the problem as well. If you are using the 18-55mm kit lens, and shooting at 55mm (meaning the largest aperture is F5.6), investing in a 50mm F1.8 may be worth while. That’s 3 full stops of light better than the kit lens.

If you can borrow one, or rent one, it might help you decide. This lens typically sells for under $100,

rob answers:

A brand new XSi untouched by human hand with a manufacturers warranty and more resolution more colour depth, live view and IS lens costs roughly the same if not a bit less than what you paid.

As such to sell it privately you will need to pitch it a good bit less than the new kit sells for new, expect about 60% absolute max.

If you go to a dealer expect about 40% value as a trade in, they need to pay staff, rent, tax electricity etc AND they have Mr Canon who can sell the nice shiny new XSis for a chunk less than what the camera retails at…

You have a really good DSLR, and you would really want to be changing systems completely or buying a far superior model (at least a 5D or a 1 series) to warrant selling a decent DSLR at a reduced rate.

If it were me I would keep using the XTi and put any money thats burning a hole in your pocket to better lenses, a good flashgun or a gitzo or manfrotto tripod by the time your XTi dies or becomes obselete you’ll be into cameras that are 20MP or higher for less cash… And the good lenses, flashgun and tripod will still have a life with any new camera you buy.

You have a good camera just now, save your cash and keep using it.

Any lenses you buy should be EF fit, as this will increase your options within the canon system in the future.

rob answers:

The canon Rebel Xti is a good way to upgrade, excellent features and great flexibility. I recently recommended the same camera to my friend who wanted to upgrade from point and shoot to Dslr. I think you will be very happy with the results of your shots.

You should be aware of the lens costs because Canon only gives you one lens and trust me if you’re into photography, you will be lusting for more lens pretty soon, which could cost you twice as much as the camera itself.

I currently use the Olympus E-500 and have gotten great results, the great thing about it is that it comes wiht two lens in the starter’s kit…something to consider.

rob answers:

Basically all you have to do is make an adjustment on both aperture and shutter value. There’s a bracketing meter on the LCD status panel and in the viewfinder. Check your manual to find what they are and learn how a little adjustment on the shutter and aperture works with the meter.

The bracketing meter have a caret below them – if they are on the center (0) then the camera meter reads that you should be able to take a picture with correct exposure. If the caret slides to the right, then chances are that your picture will be overexposed, and vice versa.

I know it’s a little bit confusing at first but don’t give up. Study your manual with the camera in your hand and experiment. It might not be the greatest time for you to learn such thing but I’m sure you’ll find it very helpful in the future.

rob answers:

Some of this people seem to amaze me some time – you can change the aperture priority in any Manual Mode – If you guys aren’t going to help or give incorrect information, you should not say anything at all

If you are on M mode all you have to do is press the Av button and at the same time turn the dial.

If you are on Av more all you have to do is turn the dial

Tv mode and P mode by doing the the same thing at that you do on M you will be adjusting the shutter and aperture at the same!

rob answers:

No, you can’t. The EXIF of the picture contains date/time. You can create the date/time stamp using a photo editing software.

rob answers:

Canon EF-S 17-85MM f4-5.6 IS USM

rob answers:

To get a good “blur” with a 5.6 is tricky but possible.
The secret to a good blur is the lower the aperture the less depth of field (so more blur). You also gain the advantage of needing less light to shoot (that’s why the 2.8 lenses are so much more expensive).

One thing you might consider is purchasing a 50mm 1.8 lens. It runs around $100 and will give you all the depth of field you can handle (for cheap!).

To answer your other question. If your in the aperture mode, the shutter will adjust automatically based off the light meter. Just use the AV mode and ensure the aperture is as low as you can get. Also the further out you are zoomed, and the closer your subject the more background “blur” you will get.

rob answers:

I have to agree with Sagara. I don’t see anything in those images that is camera specific. It actually does come down to 1)photographer skill/experience and 2) using quality glass.

I would rather have a $600 camera with a $1,500 lens, then I would a $1,800/$2,500 camera with a $200 “kit” lens. A camera is just part of a photographers tool kit…$20,000 worth of Snap-On tools will not help you work on a car if you don’t know what you are doing. Just as the best stove and pans will not guarantee the food you cook will taste good… OR since photography is an art…using the same paint brushes as Dali/Picasso/Renoir does not mean I can paint masterpieces.

rob answers:

Since the earthquake and tsunami, the supply line from Japan will be a little slow. Anything expected in the second quarter of this year, may be introduced in the third or fourth.

You have a fine 30D, so there is NO urgency to buy a new camera.

If you plan on going pro, look hard at the full frame Canon or Nikon Cameras.

Most of my colleagues shoot primarily using either the Nikon D3s or Canon 1Ds, Mark III and have one cropped sensor dSLR for when they need the extra reach. In the case of Canon owners, ALL their lenses are EF, since EF-S lenses cannot be used on the 5D or 1D series cameras

rob answers:

I would consider Canon EOS 7D 18 MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera
* 18.0-megapixel CMOS Sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors for high image quality and speed
* Advanced HD movie mode with manual exposure control and selectable frame rates
* Intelligent Viewfinder with 100 percent field of view; 19-point,
* All cross-type AF system equipped with dual diagonal cross-type sensors
* Capture images to CF Card Type I and II, UDMA-compliant CF cards

rob answers:

For portrait and landscape work, the 5DII is the baby you want. Great wide angle images and the resolution you mentioned previously.

These kinds of subjects aren’t going to be moving fast so the autofocus system isn’t going to be a big hold up. The resolution bonus over your 40D would be more than obvious.

The 7D may be the newest and ‘best’ (I want one too!) but it doesn’t sound like you have any need for most of the features that make it special – high frame rate shooting, very fast autofocus and so on.

Now this is where it may get a bit smart-alec, and I apologise. It doesn’t sound like you really ‘need’ any of those things. Your 40D and lenses are more than suited to landscape and portrait work and far, far more. The 35mm 1.4L is a very nice lens, I’m sure but does it do anything special that -you- personally need.

You have more than enough equipment to start doing ‘serious’ landscape and portrait work, so start doing it, and start earning some money from it.

Put that money towards your new camera and then you can think about buying a new camera and not having to sell any of your old equipment.

You might also discover other things that your $1000 will buy you, such as more lighting (think 2+ lights on stands for portrait work), a lens for a specific job or whatever.

All I’m saying is, give it some more thought before you splash out.

rob answers:

You are comparing a full frame sensor (the 5D, Mark II) and a smaller APS-C sensor (7D) camera.

As this link shows, the full frame 5D performs much better in the important factors of sensor score, colour depth, dynamic range and low-light performance

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/305%7C0/(appareil2)/329%7C0/(appareil3)/296%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Canon/(brand3)/Nikon

Are we to assume that you already own an entry level Canon system with some EF-S lenses? If so, the only choice is the 7D, since EF-S lenses can damage any of the full frame Canon bodies (1D and 5D series bodies)

If you are not already invested into a Canon system, there is an alternative camera body compared to the two you mentioned.

rob answers:

EF Lenses won’t mount on the Canon S5 IS camera.

There are a few adapters that they make specifically for it. (A teleconverter, wide angle adapter, and close up or macro adapter.) Those are what you see on the Canon Website under the S5 IS page.

rob answers:

An entry-level Canon DSLR like the XS, T1i, T2i, 50D and 7D usually has an EF-S lens as part of the kit. An EF-S lens CANNOT be used on a Canon full-frame DSLR like the 5D or 1D. Only Canon EF lenses can be used on those cameras. Of course, an EF lens can be used on the XS, T1i, T2i, 50D and 7D.

So if you buy an entry-level Canon DSLR and have any intentions of ever upgrading to a 5D or 1D full-frame DSLR Canon then don’t buy any additional EF-S lenses.

rob answers:

First, sorry I don’t speak Greek, what is “compat?”

EOS – Electronic Optical System. It’s the system that all Canon Rebel cameras use for their lenses.
All it really means is the lens is electric. Since you didn’t tell us what camera you have, I can only assume it’s a Rebel, then yes all EOS lenses. EF = Electronic Focus.
EF-s = Electronic Focus – Short Back Focus. This means there’s a shorter distance between the back element of the lens and the sensor than there is with EF lenses. Not all Canon cameras are
compatible with EFs lenses.

rob answers:

I was googling and found canon lens from follwing site.

Http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=canon+lens&x=0&y=0&tag=pntsa-20

!!!

rob answers:

Try canon-asia.com. It should list authorized repair centers for your Canon equipment. They will not work on non-Canon equipment.

For your Sigma lenses, email them at info@sigmaphoto.com for a list of repair centers.

rob answers:

They are both good cameras. Your question is like asking what is the best car, stereo, or even restaurant. Everybody has their own opinion. I agree with Sagara, go to a camera shop and try each one. When I shot film, I liked Minolta. When I switched to digital, I tried the different brands. I liked the way Canon felt, not only how the body felt, but the layout of all of the controls (buttons, dial, and even menu layout).
As far as editing software, Photoshop is the standard among professional photographers. It does have a steeper learning curve, but you will find there is a lot of help available with any questions you may have.

rob answers:

I have the older version of this camera. I’ve just used it as a point and shoot. I haven’t gotten into any of the manual settings. It’s very easy to use and the picture quality is very good. I chose this camera over others because my grandfather who is really into photography recommended it and at the time I thought I was going to need a manual camera for a photography class.

rob answers:

Best Buy has a great selection of SLR cameras. Check out the website too…they have a lot of sales that are offered on the websites and not in stores. It’s always good to compare them both.

I would also recommend trying www.craigslist.com it’s a great way to search for cameras that people are trying to sell in your area, a lot of the time they are barley used and you can get great deals. You also have to meet with the people who are selling the items, that way you can probably test it out before you buy it.

I’ve used a version of this camera that is a few years old and I loved it. It takes great quality photos and the lens it comes with is amazing. Depending on what your going to use the camera for, it would be good to buy additional lenses for it as well.

rob answers:

Here is from where you can buy it for the cheapest. You can also read user reviews there. Hope this helps
http://tiny.cc/dudug

rob answers:

I love the 40d. It is part of the EOS line; there are cameras both higher than it and lower, but I feel like this one is the best for the price.

10.1 mp

Here is some more info about it

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonEOS40D/

rob answers:

What model is it?

What’s the condition?

Canon EOS 35mm SLR’s can range from hundreds of dollars to a mere 20$ depending on these two factors.

rob answers:

Cases are like underwear, you really have to have one that fits you.

I don’t understand the (but this takes up barely any space at all

rob answers:

The N70 looks like the best deal, however look at both and see which one is in the best condition. If nothing else, make sure that the lens has a UV or skylight filter on it or has no damage to the front element

Both cameras are perfectly fine, but remember, the one you buy will be the system you will be using for decades as you start buying your first DSLR … In this case, both choices will hook you up to the largest cameras systems used by the pros

rob answers:

There are many cases you can use for this type of cameras like Case Logic, or Lowepro Ridge

rob answers:

While what Caoedhen wrote is technically correct, there is an important bit of information missing: The crop factor depends on the camera, not on the lens.

As he wrote it, it appears that EF lenses will be subject to the crop factor of 1.6x, while your current EF-S lenses are not. That is not so. Both are equally affected by the crop factor.

A 50mm lens, be it a EF one or EF-S one, will give you the same angle of view as a 80mm one when that one is mounted on a full frame or film camera. But a 50mm lens, when mounted on the same camera, will always give you the same angle of view, regardless of if it’s a EF or EF-S lens.

Anyway, note that while EF lenses work on crop frame cameras without any problems, EF-S ones MUST NOT be used on full frame or APS-H ones. They will break the mirror of such cameras.

rob answers:

If it’s under warranty…you could owe possibly nothing. But they should be able to give you an estimate on the phone if you describe the problem. Generally companies have a flat fee for an inspection and then apply that toward the repair cost if you OK getting the camera fixed. But contacting the company will give you a better idea as to the cost.

Most companies also require you call for a Return Authorization Number, so it’s a good idea to call them anyway.

rob answers:

Well I’ve never needed repair for any of my cameras but, knowing the reputation that Canon has around the world for excellent, top grade equipment, I’d have to believe that they would do a first rate job with repair.

However, refurbished equipment coming directly from the manufacturer is, for the most part, as good as new. In this case refurbished doesn’t mean repaired. It can mean it was a display model that didn’t sell. It could be a return. It could be a shelf model that didn’t sell and wasn’t even opened. There’s several ways a camera can become “refurbished”.

The choice is yours. To my thinking if its a choice between spending the $210 and getting a refurbished for nothing (or is it nothing?), I go for the refurbished model.

rob answers:

It depends upon what you’ve done to it and if the camera is still under warranty.

If the pins are simply bent (am I assuming electrical contact pins for the lens?), then it’s possible for a local camera shop to repair quite easily, if they need to be replaced, then Canon are the people to supply the pin-blocks. If a local shop repairs the camera, it will void the warranty – irrespective of the nature of the repair.

Price is, of course, entirely dependent upon severity of the ‘crime’…but, even with new pins fitted by Canon I wouldn’t expect the price to be anything astronomically higher than $100.

Edit: Dammit. I’ve just read your other question and I’ve been parping on about the wrong pins…ignore this and take the advice given by fhotoace on your other question.

Next time, please be more specific…

rob answers:

It’s going to cost nearly as much to have them inspect the camera as it will for them to fix the camcorder itself. If I were you, I would just take the camcorder to a local electronics store and they will be happy to evaluate the camcorder for you, maybe even free of charge. Places like Best Buy, Circuit City, and Radio Shack will probably do this. So when they look at the camera and tell you what is wrong, you will know and then you can deal with the hassle of shipping the thing back and forth.

Hope that helped.

rob answers:

I agree, you can buy a new one for the price of repair. Unless its under warranty

rob answers:

If you do it the *right* way, you won’t use the audio captured by the camera – and will use an external audio capture device. The Zoom H4 is a start. When you edit, sync the audio then mute the audio captured by the camera. The hiss from the camera-captured audio is irrelevant.

rob answers:

Lenses are expensive, so if you personally don’t have any money, get your parents to buy a cheaper body with a couple of lenses thrown in instead of just one expensive body. The lens is important, not the body.

What will happen is that your parents will buy you a 60D/D7000 and you will have no money to buy a better walkabout lens, or a macro lens. Look at lens prices THEN look at body prices.

If I was you I’d be looking at the Sony A55 or A580 for example. There are hundreds of cheap Minolta lenses on eBay and the Sony sensor used in the D7000 is the same as the one in the A55/A580

Also consider Pentax, they are doing some excellent bodies lately.

If you insist on Canon/Nikon then get the 40D/50D/D90 range.

rob answers:

First thing. If you’re going to talk digital cameras get your terms together. There’s no such thing
as “filming” with a digital camera. These cameras record video and there’s a huge difference.

I would actually recommend what I have, the Canon 500D (t1i). It’s excellent in stills and video and it has the same sensor as the 60D.

rob answers:

1. You cannot use camera without lens.
2. Might be acceptable quality, but nothing too exciting from the samples I have seen.
3. They are huge, and yes you would like to have a fast internet connection if you plan to upload.
4. Well that’s a good question. Actually you not only need to read the user manual, but you also need to learn basics of photography and videography to do justice to that camera. It’s a complicated camera, and if you keep shooting on auto, you’ll get the same results as you would from a 200 dollar camera.
5. 18-55 is the worst lens from Canon. But still acceptable quality. For best quality, cheapest lens I can think of is Sigma 50mm f1.4 (should be around 500).
6. It’s a plastic body, you drop it once, forget it forever. (Nikon d7000 same price, but magnesium alloy body).
7. No, it’s not suitable for you. It has the same sensor as Canon 550d, both are plastic body cameras, then why not buy a 550d with better lens instead of 18-55? For the price of 60d, Nikon d7000 is a much much better option.

rob answers:

With these lenses, the smalest aperture value is different at 18mm and 55mm

at 18mm it is 3.5
at 55mm it is 5.6

lenses sometimes expresses aperture in a range. In this case f/3.5-5.6
the 3.5 refers to the low end of the focal length range (18mm). The 5.6 refers to the maximum focal length range (55mm)

rob answers:

You need a charger that is made for your camera battery. . And when I got my XTi, I had to charge it a lot longer than 2 hours. Check at a real camera store and see if they have a proper charger. Mine came with one that just plugs into a wall or extension cord.

I hope the charger you used didn’t ruin your battery. I was told to never use anything but the recommended battery by Canon.

rob answers:

Seems like it could be about right. I am comparing to UK prices. Best place to gauge prices is ebay.
Depends on the quality of the lenses you are getting. Find out what they are worth etc

This is what jumped off ebay

Canon Speedlite 430EXII external flash = $ 270
400D Body with 18-55 lens = $500
70 – 300mm lens $90 Sigma to $400 Canon (depends on the model – worth checking out)
Filter $20-30
Lens hood usually included with camera
Memory card cheap as chips (depends on capacity and speed)
Tripod could be a cheap $20 or pro $1000

You could get a bargain but I would get some good information on the lens make and model and look up the prices.

Also is this a warranty outstanding on this camera. Its a lot of cash to loose if it breaks a few weeks down the line.

rob answers:

Hm, let’s see,

The XTi, 400D, with 18-55 is worth about 320$
Memory card, CF 4GB -20$ (dont know the speed)
Extra battery – 50$
All other stuff comes when you buy the DSLR – 0$

390$, but I’m not sure if the XTi is worth so much. If you can, try setting the price to 365$ and you buy!

Seems like a good offer. Good luck.

rob answers:

Go meet with the guy and check out the camera. Make sure that all the menus work, the flash fires, the rapid shutter mode works and stops when you take your finger off the shutter button. Make sure that the lens(if it comes with one) has no scratches along with the mirror in the camera. Be sure that the lens comes off when you press the button and twist it. Just take a few pictures with it too. Ask to see some pictures that he has taken with it and be sure that you get the receipt if/when you purchase it. From what you are telling me if appears to be a good deal.

Best of luck!

rob answers:

One hour charging? It could be that the battery needs to be replaced.

rob answers:

If you are only in high school, probably you should limit the choices to the T3 or T3i at a lower price range.

Of course 7D and 5D are both great cameras, but you may want to save some money for a better lens instead. I would pick T3i over T2i because you have mentioned about filming in your question. The T3i has the vari-angle LCD, which is good for filming.

Not sure how much of experience you have in photography, if you don’t have a lot of experience, you may want to start with T3 at a lower price range.

After all, the Lenses are somewhat more important than the camera body itself.

You can check out http://www.thephotoforum.com/ in the US to chat with photography enthusiasts too.

rob answers:

Honestly, it’s simply a personal preference.

Go down to an electronics store, like Best Buy, and try them out for yourself. See which one feels better in your hands and/or functions you like better.

1) Are you comparing the 7D or the 5D Mrk II…?

2) Do you understand the full frame vs. Crop sensor? (5D II vs 7D)

rob answers:

You will need to look at the accessories you will need to use a dSLR as a full time video production camera. To budget for what it really will cost you will need to know what you will have to add to a dSLR to make it perform as a video camera, NOT a dSLR with a video feature

http://www.redrockmicro.com/redrock_dslr.html

http://www.switched.com/2010/05/24/essential-dslr-accessories-for-shooting-oscar-worthy-hd-video/

You may find it more economical just to buy what you need to be a video producer

http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ModelList?storeId=11201&catalogId=13051&catGroupId=34401

NOTE: A dSLR has one sensor. CMOS sensors get hot, so long takes are problematic. CMOS sensors display what is called the jelly effect with tearing of the image as the camera is panned.

A video camera has 3-CCD’s, three times the resolution. CCD’s do not get hot and shut down the camera. There is no jelly effect when using a video camera with CCD sensors

Video cameras also have features that a dSLR does not

* Four channels 48-kHz/16-bit digital audio
* 4-position Neural Density filter
* Built-in SMPTE timecode generator/reader with genlock
* 48V phantom power for microphone inputs

rob answers:

Why are you considering buying a 1200 AUD camera when you don’t know the difference between a 5D and a 550D? You obviously don’t need a 5D and probably would be better of saving money and getting the 1100D.

rob answers:

I read a review, he even claims that 7D is far better than 5D mark II..

Well after much deliberation between this and a 5d Mark II i decided to opt for the 7D and spend the extra I save on some nice wide angle lenses. First of all for anyone who is expecting a 1.6 crop camera’s image quality to be better than the 5d mark ii you can forget it. The 5D mark ii is a full frame sensor camera and the 7D is a crop, different cameras for different purposes. I know three people who own a 5d mark II, wedding photographer, cinematographer and a landscape photographer. As you can tell, they all need wide angle and good low light performance. The 5D Mark II/other full frame cameras are targeted towards users with wide angle needs. So if you find yourself in a crowded room with little light during a wedding the EOS 7D may not be for you, less you put on a 10-22mm EFS lens which is the widest lens for a APS-C camera.

Full review here….

rob answers:

It is about photographer, I agree %100

But if we talk about mid range or entrance level cameras then I prefer Canon because of CMOS sensors. Sony is making most of electronic parts and sensors for Nikon and they are all CCD and has bad noise performance at high ISO settings then Canon. Of course they are little bit cheaper at price but In that case personally I will prefer a Sony DSLR which can use also old minolta lenses. So I can make a good set with affordable price then Nikon.
Also on the other hand i think it is one of the oldest question which were asking since 35mm SLRs so It has not an exact answer. Some one will prefer Nikon and other one will prefer Canon. And Who used canon almost will never use Nikon and who used Nikon will never use Canon

rob answers:

From the sound of it, the ‘lack of features’ you mentioned in your mum’s Canon means, to you, that it doesn’t have scene modes. That’s because it’s a proper camera not a toy.
Similarly, selective colour is a gimmick & you won’t find it in a DSLR.

I suggest you buy a point & shoot – a DSLR would be wasted on you.

rob answers:

At present, those cameras may seem “comparable” but I suggest that you visit a camera shop and hold the three in your hands and see how they FEEL in your hands; my guess is that you’ll prefer the Nikon’s no-nonsense feel and the ergonomics.

My own personal reason for choosing the Nikon would, of course, be the optics. When you buy a SLR camera, whether digital or film, you’re actually buying into a lens system. Lenses normally outlast cameras, unless dropped on a hard service or submerged in water. So, when you buy a lens, you know that it must fit the next level camera. Well, I don’t know about Pentax or the Rebel, but I do KNOW that the lens for the Nikon will fit the other digital Nikon cameras currently in popular use: D50, D70, D70S, D100, D200, D2X, and will fit whatever other camera they make in the future (they have NOT changed their lens mount since 1959).

The other reason for choosing Nikon is that the lenses are known for superb engineering and build craftsmanship PLUS superior glass formula (yes, glass AIN’T just glass). I would even suggest that you look at the very versatile Nikon lens: Nikkor AF DX 18-135mm lens, and consider getting “faster” lenses in the future so that you can start building your “arsenal” of lenses that will be with you for many years to come.

I bought all of my “better” lenses on the used market and I saved a bundle for a better grade of brand name and quality rather than go with generic lenses (I learned my lesson a long time ago and vowed NEVER to repeat that error after a most humiliating and most embarrassing experience with a generic lens, which I sold immediately after one use; all the images came our soft around the edges, and I later discovered that it was a common fault with inferior glass used by generic brand companies in order to compete with brand names) (generic lenses are mostly for once-in-a-while photos like vacationers or those who bring out a camera for “special” holidays/occasions; avid photographers are a bit more discriminating and concerned with image detail quality).

EDITED: I should have mentioned that the features at this level of camera are very close to the more expensive “professional” level cameras. The features are there to give you more versatility and means to get things done under a lot of different circumstances that will arise. You’ll also find that the features are located where you can easily access them, and in a shot time, you won’t have to take your eyes away from the viewfinder to locate the features.

Good luck and very best wishes.

rob answers:

The Canon EOS Rebel XS is the “little brother” of the Canon EOS Rebel XSi which means they are both almost the same camera, but the XSi has more to offer than the XS. Perhaps consider basing your buying decision on how serious you will be taking up digital SLR photography. If you firmly believe that you will take digital SLR photography very seriously in the long run and want a solid entry-level digital SLR camera, then the Canon XSi may be a better choice for you.

Http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YA85A?ie=UTF8&tag=100beautytips-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012YA85A

If price is your main concern and you are only looking for Canon’s bottom entry-level digital SLR model, then the current price of the Canon XS kit is quite worthy of a purchase consideration.

Http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBKJGG?ie=UTF8&tag=100beautytips-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001CBKJGG

Here are the notable similarities of the XSi and the XS:
* Both have practically the same large single-plate CMOS sensor and the Digic III Image Processor, except the XSi is 12.2MP while the XS is only 10.1MP (megapixels).
* Both have the Canon EOS Integrated Cleaning System.
* Both can be purchased with the same EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Kit Lens. It is possible to buy the XSi camera body without the kit lens.
* Both have Live View Function with their LCD displays.
* Both are fully compatible with Canon EF and EF-S lenses.
* Both utilize SD and SDHC memory cards.
* Both use the same battery pack (LP-E5) and the same optional battery grip (BG-E5).
* The XS is compatible with most of the Canon EOS camera system accessories that can be used with the XSi.

Now here are the differences between the XS and the XSi:
* The XSi has more megapixels at 12.2MP while the XS is 10.1MP.
* For JPEG, the XSi can continuously shoot at 3.5 fps while the XS can do 3.0 fps. But for RAW, the XSi is much better at 3.5 fps while the XS can only do 1.5 fps.
* The LCD monitor of the XSi measures 3.0 inches while the XS has a smaller screen at 2.5 inches.
* The XSi has a 9-point AF system while the XS has only a 7-point.
* The XSi has Spot metering while the XS does not. Both have Evaluative, Partial, and Center-weighted metering, however.
* The XSi RAW is 14-bit while the XS RAW is 12-bit.
* XSi has Highlight Tone Priority while XS does not.
* The viewfinder of the XSi provides 0.87x magnification while the XS provides 0.81x.
* The XSi can utilize the RC-1 or the RC-5 wireless remote shutter release, but the XS is not compatible with either so you won’t be able to use a wireless remote release.
* You cannot buy the XS without the kit lens.

rob answers:

Both cameras are entry level dSLR’s

Both cameras are capable of shooting professional quality photos if the user is up to the task.

For just a little more investment, the Nikon D3100 may be worth the time it will take to save the extra few dollars to buy it.

You need to take your focus off the camera body and look into the camera and lens system they support. That is what you will be marrying for the next few decades, so look at all the lenses and the bodies within those camera systems and then choose

rob answers:

You bet. You can fix anything with time and money.

rob answers:

You need to take your camera in to a camera repair shop and have them repair it for you.

rob answers:

It prob will come with the camera, and with each additional lens that you buy. If it doesn’t, buy one for $6-9. Also buy an elastic strap which goes around the lens cover, and sticks to the camera; so you don’t drop, and loose, your lens cover in a place where you cannot recover it.

Also to protect your lens, consider a clear filter that you leave on the lens at all times.

rob answers:

Canon 24-70 mm f 2.8 L is a good one. It doesn’t get that wide for you — but it’s sharp and rather fast.

Some photos here http://www.flickr.com/little_pooky

(Note: most were taken with Canon 5D)

rob answers:

There are 4 little springs under the cover.
One or two of them came off.
I had the same problem and had a friend fix it.
You decide what you want done.